Sunday, February 17, 2013

The Final Blog

It's really hard for me to wrap my brain around the fact this is my last Beijing blog.  I've been so behind in blogging, it's probably all for the best to just start all over.

If you had told me I would only be in Beijing for 8 months, I probably would have done a few things differently.  I would have traveled (within China) more.  I would have taken extra long on my last Great Wall climb.  I would have bought more furniture!

One thing I have done was leave Beijing after meeting some of the most amazing, memorable, life-touching people I have ever come across.  I would not give those 8 months back for anything.  Living in China has strengthened my family, made me more aware of what really matters in life, and shown me how important true friends are in my life.  It's also left me with 12 extra pounds.


But it is true, you see things in China you won't see anywhere else.

(Chinese acrobat performance from October when my mom visited)




I won't miss public toilets.





























The best food I've ever tasted was in Beijing.  Pumpkin soup.



Despite the daily pollution battle, Beijing has some beautiful places to see.  



We had a full time driver hired by Derek's company.  But honestly - nobody wants to call the driver to go 1 or 2 miles or just down the road.  Sometimes you just want your freedom.  So there was the tuk tuk.

Hopefully next place I won't have to do so much work to just buy fruits and vegetables.

The toy market.

Most of my second baby's life was in Beijing.


And I can tell you one of the hardest parts about leaving is wondering what will happen to the people you have let into your personal lives.  You can find them another job, give them a bonus, but the truth is... it's out of your hands.  We loved our driver and ayi.  Mr. Yang never complained, never asked for a single day off, and somehow always found me in a crowd.  He made sure my kids had coats on before getting out the car.  He loved to sing Chinese songs with Bianca.  Chen and Veronica were best buds.  She always made sure we had a clean house and a meal waiting when we got home from traveling.  Most importantly, she taught me what it means to be a good Christian.


I've grown in so many ways.  Spiritually, mentally, and physically (unfortunately!).  I can say I'm not upset our time was cut short in Beijing, but I can also say I wouldn't give it back for anything.

Would I move back?

Without a doubt.  But right now, I'm enjoying the beach.

Here's a look at our Beijing house after it was all packed up.

Tuesday, September 18, 2012

The Great Wall



It's so hard to blog about The Great Wall.  Where do you start?  I think it's best to give a little background on it, so you realize just how "GREAT" it really is:

1. It began being built in 7th century... BC (Before Christ just to verify that is not a typo) until the 17th Century.
Come on - if that's not enough to blow you away, just stop reading.

2. It is the largest fortification ever built.
It was hand built to protect China dynasties from various raids.

3. It is over 5,500 miles long.
That is about 1.5 times the width of the USA from L.A. to N. Carolina.  Hand made, people.

I could go on and on with more facts just as long as the wall itself.  But if you are bored someday and want to be amazed by all the details, Google.  It's just amazing.

So amazing, in fact, that my unprofessional pictures will probably do nothing to justify it's glory.  So I'll just ramble a bit so I can remember my experience. (note- these pics are taken over two separate trips)

My CAT "mentor" (yes, I like to call you that) took me to the great wall within the first couple weeks of my arrival to Beijing.  She told me I needed to see it and she wanted to show me the best place to tour it/how to climb it/etc.  So I strapped my 6-month old Veronica on my Baby Bjorn and off we went.

Big Mistake.

Don't ever, ever, ever take a breast fed baby on a hike of The Great Wall in the middle of summer with an out of shape mother.  I'm just saying.  I haven't exercised in years and this was not the way to begin.  But even though I was drenched in sweat and tired beyond belief, it was SO worth it to go with someone who had been there before.  She showed me where to go (there are several places you can climb it) and the best way to hike it.  Without her, I would have been even more exhausted because she showed me where to get on and be able to climb "down" most of the hike instead of climbing "up."

The Great Wall is about a 45-60 minute drive from my house.  The drive to where we started our hike includes a healthy climb in elevation just to get partially up the mountain.  

Once you arrive, you have to do a little pre-climb just to buy your tickets and get to the cable car.  This pre-climb is also a post-climb, since you end up finishing at the same place you started.  It's an entertaining climb to say the least, filled with tons of cool crap to buy.



Note to all: don't buy anything until AFTER the climb!


I snagged a pic of this dude all dressed up.  Stacey was like, "You are SO lucky he didn't see you.  You are supposed to pay to take his picture."  Ya snooze, ya lose buddy.

I found myself sweating and out of breath just climbing the hill to get entry tickets.  Then, after you climb a serious incline, you get to "relax" and take a cable car the rest of the way up.

For those of you who know me and my issue with heights, inclosed places, and suspensions... not good.  This was not relaxing.  

I wondered if the "fog" was really fog or if the pollution continued all the way out here from the city.  I think theory #2 was correct.  


The (much) better view on a good day:




This part of the Great Wall we visited is an "easy" walk/climb.  It has been well taken care of and supposably the simplest journey.  Tell that to these new tennis shoes and I think they would disagree.

It's true there are other locations of the wall where you have to get on your hands and knees to get across and you travel at your "own risk."

The shear magnitude of this amazing wonder is beyond belief.  And the beauty..... 

breathtaking. 




There are many watchtowers you walk through on the journey.  These were set up for defense as well as environmental shelters.  This is a pic of my hubs and FIL climbing down out of the top of one.

There's something to be said about this amazing piece of history.  I feel so blessed to have been able to see it in my lifetime.  For me, it's more than just stone piled up in the mountains.  It's a display of hard work, intelligence, dedication, ........

and for others it is even more, I'm sure.


If the climb up the wall itself is not enough to amaze you, then hold on for the ride down.  Cause it's another "only in China" moment.  You take a slide.  Yes, a slide down.  

And here's your only method of instruction. 


Don't forget to test the brake first.




These puppies can move.  I was seriously laughing hysterically and going so fast.... I almost hit the hubs several times.  He kept yelling, "SLOW DOWN LIZ!"  Hey peeps - I haven't driven in 4 months.  And those of you who know me are aware of my driving habits.


More to post soon.  I've been so behind on blogging.  Mainly because I've been too busy.... which means I have a lot to show everyone!  I have gotten numerous emails about our house and what a home in China looks like - I will post soon.


Thursday, August 23, 2012

Panjiayuan "Dirt" Market

Been slightly behind in my journal these days.  Somewhere between getting our boat shipment (finally) delivered and being bitten by a poisonous Chinese beetle - time got away from me.

But I'm back and been mentally writing this blog post in my head over the last week.  On Saturday, I ventured to the Panjiayuan aka "Dirt" Market in Beijing.  It is a market that is open everyday, but weekends are especially adventurous because local vendors from the countryside make the journey into the city to sell their goods.  They come on Saturday morning and stay until a.) their stuff is sold out or b.) Sunday evening rolls around and they need to leave the city to go home.  It's basically an open flea market/craft fair - China style.

I had no idea what to expect.  I didn't know if it would be bust or bank.  I just knew that it opened at 4:30am and the thought of the "good" stuff being picked over before I got there was a threat to me; therefore, I was going at 6am.  So I texted my driver, Mr. Yang, the night before and said, "Panjiayuan Market.  6am."  He showed up on time, seeming slightly excited for 6am.  "Good market," he said.  Hum.... still not convincing.  The whole slang "Dirt Market" had me slightly skittish.  Not to mention the air quality was already over 200.

We pulled up and I didn't really see any big building or entryway.  Mr. Yang said, "Ok, here."  I replied, "Um, where?  Where do I shop?"  He laughed and said, "Everywhere!" pointing on the other side of the parking garage.

Here's what I saw when he said that:
A massive wall of stone warriors and worshipers.  Pretty cool, but not on my list of things to purchase for the trip.  These suckers were like 30 feet tall.

So, I walked around a bit and came across the entry area.  I found out real quick why it's called "Dirt Market."  The vendors bring in their goods and set them up on the ground.  Most have a blanket and line up their treasures.  It made me smile instantly.  I knew today was going to be fun.

The front part of it is open-air.  Of course, it happened to be the most polluted day that I have lived here thus far.  My luck.




If jewelry is your thing, there's plenty here to chose.  The stones are gorgeous, colorful, and cheap.  Note the missing stone in the center of this board.  It is now in my possession.  Also note cigarette butt in bottom right corner of picture (review: Dirt Market).

This is broadly known as an antique market.  People bring goods they say are "thousands of years old" or perhaps used by rulers hundreds of years ago.  Usually it's a hoax and you have to be a very good historian to know what's real and what's not.  Anybody wanna pay for broken pottery that Mao used?

Or perhaps one of his books?

And while the goods here are amazing and there's diamond in the ruff for everyone, the real joy was communicating with locals.  Honestly, it was one of my best China days yet.  I really thought it was going to be a sad, boring alone day since my buddy couldn't go with me, but I enjoyed it.  The vendors don't yell at you.  They don't chase you.  They sit at there station and if you wanna look, look!  It is not like the Pearl Market or the Silk Market.  There was a total of 4 non-Chinese people I saw the entire time.  Nobody speaks English. 

This was the best vendor.  He was hilarious.  He didn't speak English and I don't speak Chinese, but we laughed and somehow joked through gestures and awkward vocal sounds until we agreed upon a price.  When he first got out his calculator, I simply shook my hand and started saying numbers in Chinese (that's the only thing I can say right now, don't be too impressed).  He was like, "Ah Ha Ha. Wawawa!"  Like, 'I'm impressed'!  He instantly dropped his price.  If you could have sat there and watched us, you would have laughed.  


Speaking of sitting and watching, everyone wants to watch the white western girl barter.  Each vendor has a little, teeny tiny stool (the guy in the above pic is actually sitting on it, you can't even see it and it's a miracle my big hindy fits on it).  When you want to start negotiating, you sit in the stool and grab a cane (you can see them in the above picture as well) and point to what you want.  The negotiating begins.  Each time I sat down, a flock of people would come and stand over me.  I don't know if they wanted to see how well I could negotiate, what I wanted to buy, or how stupid I was for paying the prices I did..... I'd like to think it was my negotiating skills.

About half way through the day my camera had a meltdown.  It kept flashing "bulb" and wouldn't shoot in manual mode so I had to shoot in the dreaded auto-mode.  The only thing worse than forgetting your camera is having a malfunctioning one.

I think there's like 1.4 billion people that live in China?  Well, 1.3 billion of them were at this market Saturday morning.

This is the covered back part of the exhibition.  I don't think this area is a "weekend only" part - I'm thinking it's here everyday, but I'm really not sure.

There really is something for everyone here.

Handmade calligraphy pens.

Antique music and electrical items.

 Gorgeous pottery.

Of course, tea sets.

Handmade silk boxes.

 Funny looking shoes.

Lanterns.

Old-style artwork.

Modern-style artwork

 Bull horns?

And somewhere between the purple-glazed pottery I know my sister-in-law would scream about to the hippy-styled polka dot bag and scarf my Atlanta neighbor would totally dig... I got kinda sad.  I couldn't stop thinking about how I am in the most amazing situation of my life and have the most eye-opening, spectacular, you-gotta-see-this moments - yet nobody is here to show it to.  So instead I'm writing and trying to convey in these pictures what I see on a "typical" Saturday.  It's simply amazing, jaw-dropping, did-you-just-see-that? experience.

I did purchase several things.  I only bought a trinket or two for myself and mostly spent my money on gifts for people back home.  I couldn't help but buy that special something that reminded me of my loved ones thousands of miles away.

Perhaps the item of the day was this.  I saw in the calligraphy section a personalized stamping booth.  I saw a stamp that had a dragon carved out of the middle of the handle... it was beautiful.  It is the year of the dragon here so you see them in a lot of pieces.  I chatted with the seller for a bit (she spoke some broken English) and told her I wanted to personalize this stamp with a friend's name from back home.  She said she could not sell me just this one stamp.  You see, it had a "mate" (the male dragon) that matched it and had been carved from the same stone.  In Chinese culture, it is not good to separate things.  She said this pair of dragon stamps were carved from the same rock, and what nature made man can not separate.  She offered to sell me a different dragon stamp that was even cheaper, but it was not as beautiful as the one I originally wanted.  It took me about 0.5 seconds to think of a special couple I know who cannot be separated and are solid as stone.  Needless to say, I bought the two stamps and had them personalized for the couple.

The collection of handmade stamps.

You can watch the stamp being made right in front of you.

I chose to have only the Chinese symbol written on each stamp.  Some people want the English and Chinese names etched.


Definitely authentic.

The whole process takes about 45 minutes per stamp.

She put them and a porcelain ink dish in a handmade silk box.  I'm in love with them and made a mental note to get myself a stamp made before I leave.

So there you have it.  Panjiayuan Antique Market.  Just another Saturday in China for me.